Travelling Is Life

The world is a book and those who do not travel read only one page

Travelling Is Beginning

A journey of a thousand miles must begin with a single step

Travelling Is Involvement

A journey is best measured in friends, rather than miles

Travelling Is Exploring

Tourists don’t know where they have been, travellers don’t know where they are going

Travelling Is Observation

One’s destination is never a place, but a new way of seeing things

Friday, December 23, 2011

Melaka Diary # 3 : A City Of Museums

Replica of Flor Do Mar. It houses one of the two maritime museums
It was for the first time in my life that I came across such a large number of museums situated in an area of less than 2 square kilometers. In Melaka, most of the museums are situated east of the river. You name a kind of museum, and Melaka is there to offer you the same. And what’s more, entry into most of them is free of cost. All they ask you to invest is a good amount of time to absorb what is there to see and understand. And if you are going to spend a lot of time in Melaka, don’t miss these museums, as you will return enriched with in-depth knowledge of Malaysian culture in general and Melaka in particular. Some of the most famous ones are the twin maritime museums named Samudera, Customs Museum, and History & Ethnography Museum housed in the building called The Stadthuys and Cultural Museum just besides A’Famosa fort.

Most of these museums are situated around and at the base of St Paul’s Hill, and are within a walking distance from each other. So close are these museums to each other, that while heading onto Jalan Kota from Town Square, you will see only museums on your left side until you reach A’Famosa fort. Only Customs Museum, twin Samudera Museum and Naval Museum are the ones that are situated along the waterfront. Entry into Customs Museum is free, while there is a combined ticket of RM 3 for entry into three museums i.e. both maritime museums and the naval museum. One of the two maritime museums is situated inside a replica of a Portuguese ship called Flor Do Mar, which had sank off the coast of Melaka some five centuries back. In this museum, one can read about the detailed descriptions of history of Melaka (previously Malacca) and see a map that has actual charts used by Portuguese sailors some five centuries back.
The Customs Museum that is on the waterfront and near river cruise counter
The History & Ethnography Museum housed in The Stadthuys at Town Square is a place to know a great deal about Melakan culture and history through artifacts, costumes and drawings on display there. The Stadthuys is besides the Christ Church. The Stadthuys has also got a history. Built in 1650, this red building used to be the official residence of Dutch governors. Nearby it, though on the other side of church, is Youth Museum where one can know about youth activities in Malaysia. Exhibits relating to youth leaders from around the world are also on display here. It also functions as a youth centre.

Apart from government-run museums, there are also two private museums in Melaka. One of them is called Villa Sentosa and other one is known as Baba Nyonya Heritage Museum. Villa Sentosa is basically a Malay house which has been converted into museum and it offers a glimpse into a traditional Malay home. It is situated on river bank in Kampung Morten, the only Malay village in Melaka. Baba Nyonya Heritage Museum is at Tan Cheng Lock Street on the west side of the river. It is basically an ancestral house of a Straits-born Chinese family and which has been converted into a museum. A visit to this museum gives an insight into the culture and legacy of the Straits-born Chinese called Baba and Nyonya.

Text and Photos by Ajay Garg
I would be detailing about Baba Nyonyas in another article of mine.

Tuesday, December 20, 2011

Melaka Diary # 2 : Colours Strewn All Around

Colourful trishaws are unique to Melaka
The moment I entered Melaka, its colours started meeting my eyes. These colours came to me on three wheels. Baffled!! Well, I am talking about the trishaws plying on the clean and quiet roads of Melaka. You will not see so much colourful trishaws anywhere in the world. These trishaws are decorated with artificial flowers, and music never stops playing from them. And as soon as daylight starts diminishing, these trishaws start lighting up. It is pleasure watching them ply on roads, and it is fun having a ride on them. If everywhere else trishaws are a mode of transportation, they are essentially a joyride in Melaka. But before you hop onto one of those, fix a fare with its owner.
And in night, these lit-up trishaws are a sight to watch
And as twilight of evening starts descending down, one can see an increased rush at boat ticket counter. Yes, this is the time when everybody wants to be on a boat for a 40 minutes ride up and down the river. It costs you just 10 RM. The ticket counter is at riverfront and is some hundred metres down the Red Square. Though, boat-rides start in the morning and goes till late in the night, it is always preferable to go for it during night hours. Beautifully lit river walk and colourful graffiti on the back-walls of buildings lining the shores of river will make you feel as if you passing through some wonderland. Well, you won’t miss anything of historical value along the way as a recorded commentary will keep you updates about what you are seeing or what you are passing by. And don’t miss the friendly smiles from the people strolling on the river walk or sipping their drinks at the back of restaurants and guesthouses.
The Clock Tower looks stunning during night time
When you start your ride from the heritage town, you first go up the river, and on the way you can see old Melaka diluting into new Melaka. The old-styled heritage buildings giving way to new high rise building! And dim lights suddenly turning brighter. And on the way, just the reverse of it… as if a time-machine is taking you back in the bygone era. When you are about to finish the first leg of your ride and pass Jalan Hang Tuah Bridge, looking on your left side… you will see Eye On Melaka. It is 25-metre-tall observation wheel or ferris wheel. It is the latest attraction of Melaka. Just opposite this ferris wheel is old Cathy Cinema.

I enjoyed my boat ride on my last night in Melaka. There had been raining there since afternoon. By the time, I reached at ticket counter; the rain god had relented a bit. But as soon as boarded the boat, it started again. Though a bit complaining at first I was suddenly finding a new joy in getting myself soaked. As it was going to be my last night there, I wanted to absorb all of what was coming my way in Melaka. Everything, including rain!! Also, the lights around me looked more enchanting as these flickered through rain drops. So, for me, this boat ride turned somewhat more special.
A boat going up-stream in Melaka River
Graffiti on rear walls of the buildings lining the river banks

And do not miss going up St Paul’s Hill in night. When you look in the direction of the sea from the top of the hill, you will be amazed. A panoramic view is waiting to be a feast for your eyes. The revolving viewing deck of Menara Taming Sari directly in line of your vision, well-lit buildings symmetrically erected in the reclaimed land, and ships and boats venturing in sea beyond that….it is a sight that you won't forget easily.

Text and Photos by Ajay Garg

Monday, December 19, 2011

Melaka Diary # 1 : Historical City Of Malaysia

River Melaka runs almost entire length of the town. River-walk is stunning
Melaka was not a part of my travel plan this time. In fact, it had not been ever before. I had heard about this city, its history and its magnificence, but had never given a serious thought about going and spending some time there. All I wanted to go to in Malaysia -apart from Kuala Lumpur- was the Malaysian part of Borneo Island. Natural wonders of Sabah and Sarawak have always lured me, and there has been a constant urge in me to go wandering in the rain forests of Borneo. So, as soon as I got to know about a good offer for Mumbai-KL route from Air Asia, I was searching for flights from KL to Kota Kinabalu and reading about places I could visit there.
Church at Town Square
And, then it happened. Nicole Felhosi, my friend from Germany, was online and we started talking about my travel plan. I had met Nicole while I was travelling to Bali. She was on a world trip at that time, and had happened to travel to Melaka once during her trip. She told me that Melaka was not to be missed at any cost and I must have included it as one of my destinations. She even stressed that I should have prepared my itinerary in such a way that I happened to be in Melaka from Friday to Sunday. She said that the weekends in Melaka were fabulous and colourful, and Jonker Street in particular was a site to watch and it was fun to be there in night. She also gave me some information about the places to stay in Melaka. So, I made up my mind, and one fine Friday afternoon, I was in Melaka, the historical city of Malaysia- admiring its quietness, beauty and colonial charm, and thanking Nicole in my heart.

Reaching Melaka
After landing at LCCT of Kuala Lumpur International Airport, I boarded a direct bus for Melaka. There is only one bus company that operates between LCCT and Melaka, and that is Transnasional (yes, the spellings are that way only. It is Malay way of adopting foreign words). They have one of the finest buses; you get to travel in a club class. One can book tickets online also with Transnasional, but I preferred to book them at their counter at LCCT as I was not sure if my flight from Siem Reap to KL would land on time. Interestingly, you will not find their counter in the international arrival hall. You will have to come out and then walk a few minutes to the domestic arrival hall where you can book your ticket. I preferred to book a return ticket @ RM 22.10 one way. When I boarded the bus, I did not know that the next three days were going to be some of the most memorable ones of my life.

The road journey ended exactly two and a half hours later, when our bus entered into Melaka Sentral. It is a huge octagonal building in the north-eastern part of the city that lies on a north-western and a south-eastern geographical axis. Melaka Sentral houses a bus terminal along with many good food outlets and shops. From the terminal, buses seem to operate for every corner of the world. From here, you can go cross-border into Singapore, or to almost every part of Malaysia; and from here only, you get local buses for various destinations in the city.

The Heritage City
The main area of interest for a traveller in Melaka is the heritage city which is situated along the sea-shore and is spread a couple of kilometers inland on the both sides of Melaka River. Melaka is a natural port and it has been an important stop-over for trade-ships plying on the routes connecting east and west since ancient times. Beacuase of its high importance as a port, it invited foreign invasions and has seen Portugese, Dutch and British as its rulers. So, during those times, area around the river and near the sea had been the centre of activity and was important from strategic point of view.
In memory of Queen Victoria
So, naturally, you find most of the ancient buildings or places of historical importance in this area only- thus, giving it its name as heritage city. And in this part only, you find the Jonker Street, the A’Famosa Fort, St. Paul’s Hill, the St. Paul’s Church, the Town Square (also called Dutch Square, or some times as Red Square... but the last name should not be confused with the nomenclature of Red Square in Moscow where it is associated with communism. In Melaka this name comes from red colour of buildings here which is a characteristic of Dutch colonial architecture) and a cluster of museums housed in ancient buildings. So, very obviously, most of the backpacker hostels and guesthouses are in this area only.

There is a 24-hour taxi service from Melaka Sentral to this area. A one-way taxi trip costs you RM 15 till midnight. And after midnight up to 5’o clock in the morning, one has to pay just the double of it. So, if you are on a budget travel and want to spend more on good food and beer during your stay, better board a local bus. Bus no. 17 takes you to Red Square in just 1 RM, and from here one can easily walk to the nearby areas. Remember, Melaka is not a very big city, and walking around is a fun there. And that was what I did exactly while I was there for three days. I just strolled around during evenings. Not just I saved a lot of money; I got to feel the city.

What imparts Melaka its original colour is its ethnic diversity. Apart from the local Malay people, Melaka is home to Baba Nyonyas, Chittys, Portuguese, Chinese and Indians. Baba Nyonyas are the strait-born Chinese people. They are a mixed race which came into existence when Chinese settlers came here some 600 years ago and married Malay woman. They have a very interesting cultural history, about which I will be detailing in my next articles. Like Chinese, early Portuguese settlers, who were fishermen, also married locally and their descendants are still living in Melaka. Chittys are strait-born Indians, who are descendants of early Indian settlers which came here in 15th century. Also, there are Indian people called Chettiars, and a Chinese community that came to Melaka during British rule or after that. These communities still maintain their own cultural identity, and thus contributing significantly towards overall cultural scenario of Melaka.
 
Text and Photos by Ajay Garg

For more stories on Melaka, please go to my other posts...
It was where the most important bastion of Melaka fort was situated
The street market at Town Square, also called the Dutch Square

Friday, April 23, 2010

A Paradise Called Maldives


 
For me, the pictures of those blue sapphire waters and tiny islands have always been mesmerising. Those pictures must have tingled something inside you also. Many a times you would have thought of going there and cherishing them with your own eyes, but could not. So, what do you do to go to Maldives when you know that lodging costs there are very high? An easy answer comes- cruise to Maldives. And this was exactly what I did. A short trip to Male was exciting, and seaplane ride to southern twin islands of Rangali was an experience of lifetime. And all this without actually staying anywhere on Maldivian land! In fact, this was a journey where every single minute turned into a happening statement.

Journey to Male
It was 24 hours' fun-filled journey from Cochin port to Maldives. Last December, Cochin became the first Indian city to steam off an international cruise, when Greek company Louis Cruises launched its Aquamarine ship from here. This ship sailed from Cochin on a three-night trip to Maldives. It was getting dark when the ship steamed off on a fine Wednesday evening. Our troop was on the sun deck as the ship started. As it left the port situated on Wellington island of Cochin at a snail's pace, a light wind started to blow. The ship was coming out the bay into Arabian Sea. The lights of city of Cochin soon started getting distant and ship headed right into darkness of sea, but there was a new wave of excitement building up inside me.
It was sunset time the next evening, when Aquamarine anchored just outside Male - the capital of Maldives. Saffron hues of sun going down into sea made the skyline of Male look even more beautiful. Male is situated on a tiny island not measuring more than 1.5 square kilometres. Boats, ferries and catamarans connect Male with other nearby islands of the country, and there are seaplanes to connect with islands situated far off. It was later in my trip that I realized how exciting and memorable a seaplane ride could turn out to be.

Three hours in Male
Male island is so small that one can circumvent it in less than an hour. It is located at the southern edge of North Male Atoll. The ferry from ship dropped us on the waterfront where most of the government buildings and agencies were located. Though, Male International Airport is on adjacent Hulhule Island which includes a seaplane base for internal transportation.
 
Three hours of easy walking on the island was enough to give you some everlasting memories. The presidential palace, a historic graveyard, the Islamic centre, vegetable market, fish market, lightened-up showrooms, busy roads, costly cars on streets, cosy restaurants - all the signs of a great city life, but yet a place where peace seemed to engulf you all the time. And it did give me creeps that I was on a tiny mass of land in the middle of a vast stretch of water with no imaginable limits. What a simple life, yet difficult!! Maldivians have to export their drinking water from neighbouring countries as what they get from sea around them is only salty water. And there are just two good hospitals in Male itself, and nowhere else on a country comprising of 1100 islands is another hospital. Though, dispensaries are there elsewhere.

Heaven, the next morning
After three hours on Male, we ferried back to our cruise ship. A little excitement had set in already, but none from our little group had imagined what amazement lay in store for us the next morning. Even if we would have been briefed about it, we could not have pictured it, because what we witnessed was just unimaginable.

The early morning, we were out in the sea on a catamaran. Vijay from Louis Cruises was tight-lipped about where we were headed to, until we got to Hulhule Island for a seaplane ride to twin islands of Rangali. Our 18-seater seaplane was soon air-borne, and what we were witnessing just a kilometre below was nothing less than paradise. Everybody on board was in awe. In sprawling blue waters were spread tiny bluish-green coral islands- their white sand shores seemingly melting into crystal clear waters of ocean. It looked like a divine fusion between land and water. And since most of the islands of Maldives are transformed into resorts, we could see a maze of hut-like structures spread right into heart of sea. It was a sight to behold. And that breathtaking view has not left my mind since. Thanks to Ally Ahmad of Crown Tours for making this happen.

Rangali where luxury is mortified
If this 35-minutes journey was a lifetime experience, then spending four hours in Conrad Resort on twin Rangali islands was no less. This resort belongs to Hilton group, is surrounded by a turquoise lagoon, and has twice been awarded as the best hotel in the world. The two islands are situated at some distance from each other, and there is a platform in the middle of both where seaplanes land to drop guests. From this platforms, two wooden footbridge arch away about 100 metres each side to embrace the islands. On one island there are elegant beach villas apart from spa villas with private treatment rooms out in the sea at the tip of the island, while on the other island are 50 water villas set on stilts over the sea. These water villas are pure mortification of luxury and come in four different categories based on facilities, size and tariff. 

18K dollars per night!!
We couldn't believe our years when we were told that during the peak season the premium water villas (there are only two in this category) are priced at US $18,000 per night. Woooopp... But, when we saw this villa, we were stunned. It was luxury written all over. Pure elegance! Private poll opening on one side to the sea; private open air jacuzzi; a bed that revolves 360 degrees; a telescope in bedroom; plazma TVs in every room, even in bathrooms!! That was amazing.

Itha- The Underwater Restaurant
 
Food lovers can find themselves at home among Conrad Maldives' seven world-class restaurants, while over 6,000 bottles of wine await discovery in underground Wine Cellar. We had food at one of the restaurants, and believe me, I had never had more delicious food than what I munched there. Conrad Resort can be foodies' paradise. And, courtesy Ali Ahmad of Crown Tours, we had the opportunity to enter the world's only all-glass under-sea restaurant. Spiral staircase took us down to a wonderland where a glass wall separated us from depths of sea. We could see all the marine life around us as a snorkeler would do. Well, dining cost there was 100 dollars per person.

Beaches make you fall in love with them
 
 
What you fall in love with in Maldives are beaches of soft white sand fringed by palms leading into crystal clear waters of the Indian Ocean. A dive in nice warm water refreshes you to your core. One can dive or snorkel in world's most remarkable waters on unspoilt reefs.

There, we just had four hours which seemed to pass quickly. It was time to go back to our ship. The journey back to Hulhule island on seaplane was not that exciting this time, for we were returning back from paradise leaving our heart out there. It was as if we were going to miss something very badly for the rest of our lives. And how true that feeling was!!!

And something about Aquamarine
It is a seven-deck ship with all the modern amenities and entertainment shows on board. The Lounge on 5th deck can be said to be the most happening place where every evening a music n' dance show enthralls the audience. The show introduces you to skills of some wonderful artistes from Ukraine, Greece, Bulgaria, Romania and Philippines; and it is a place where all the cultures of world seem to converge on one stage.
 
Then, there is Moonlight Disco where nights seem to melt into mornings. And for those who don't mind spending and trying their luck, a casino on fourth deck awaits them. Apart from these, a swimming pool, a gymnasium, a spa centre, and facilities like ping pong and cricket are there for you to spend your leisure time on board.

What you like the most is the variety of food on board. There is a multi-cuisine restaurant which serves buffet and a la' carte meals, and those meals are prepared by master chefs keeping Indian customers in mind. Apart from veg and non-veg varieties, you can savour Jain food also. Whereas the ambiance of this exquisitely decorated restaurant soothes your aesthetic sense, the quality and taste of food never fails to satisfy your taste buds.

Text and Photos by Ajay Garg

Amazing Temples of Bali

The Rock-cut Niches at Gunung Kawi by the River Pakerison
If you say Bali is land of temples, then it would be no exaggeration. Most of the people in Bali follows Hinduism.. owing to long contacts with Indian sub-continent since first century AD. Many religious and cultural traditions are rooted into the times when influence of Indian culture was at its highest in 10th century AD. There are a number of ancient Hindu temples in Bali whose architecture leaves one spellbound, and whose ambiance is peaceful enough to send one into a state of meditation.

My second morning at Ubud had started on a high note, and by the evening I was exhausted by extensive sight-seeing on the island. But, there is no denying the fact that in the evening when I lay in my bed relaxing my fatigued limbs, I was mentally refreshed, excited and enriched. By the time I returned to Ubud in the night, I was already in love with Bali. Yes, that is the magic this tiny island can cast upon anybody.

The one-day trip begins
My one-day journey through time had started after breakfast the second day. The cab picked me up from in front of my home-stay. There were already three fellow vagabonds in cab, who by the evening had become good friends (I am still in contact with them). Our full day excursion of the island included visits to many temples including the cave temple of Goa Gajah and the biggest temple of Pura Besakih.

The Cave Temple
Goa Gajah is an ancient temple built in 9th century, where main shrine is inside a cave. Goa Gajah literally means elephant cave. The facade of the cave is a relief of various creatures and demons carved right into the rock at the cave entrance. This temple is not situated very far from Ubud. It was the first temple on our day long trip. And there were a couple of more situated here and there on the island.When you visit temples of Bali you are required to respect the local customs. Proper dress is encouraged. If you wear long pants or a long skirt you will need a sash tied around your waist. If you are wearing shorts you will need a sarong. It is a wrap around the waist which is of ankle-length. It is same as dhoti in India. These can typically be hired at the temple itself.

Rock-cut shrines near river Pakerison
From Gajah Goa, we moved on to Gunung Kawi. It is an 11th century temple complex in Tampak Siring area of Bali. It is situated north-east of Ubud and is located on the river Pakerison. The complex comprises of 10 rock-cut candi - meaning shrines - carved into the cliff face. They stand in 23 feet high sheltered niches cut into the cliff face. These monuments are thought to be dedicated to King Anak Wungsu of the Udayana dynasty and his favourite queens.

Pura Tirta Empul
Our next stop in our day-long trip was Pura Tirta Empul. This temples is built around a sacred spring named Tampak Siring. An inscription dates the spring all the way back to 926AD; and there are fine carvings and Garudas on the courtyard buildings. The temple and its two bathing spots have been used by the Balinese for over a thousand years for good health and prosperity; as the spring water really does have the power to cure! Regular purification ceremonies also take place here. Artists at Tampak Siring produce marvellous bone and ivory carvings. Both sites are open daily.

Mother Temple of Besakih
After having a feel of these ancient temples of Bali, we were headed to the most important, the largest and the holiest temple of Agama Hindu Dharma in Bali. This is called the Mother Temple of Besakih, or Pura Besakih. Situated in the village of Besakih on the slopes of Mount Agung in north-eastern Bali, this temple probably dates back to the fourteenth century. It is built on the southern slopes of Mount Agung, the main volcano of Bali.
This temple is actually a complex made up of 22 temples that sit on parallel ridges. It has stepped terraces and flights of stairs which ascend to a number of courtyards and brick gateways that lead up to the symbolic centre or main sanctuary of the complex. This centre is called Pura Penataran Agung. All this is aligned along a single axis and designed to lead the spiritual upward and closer to the mountain which is considered sacred. The lotus throne or padmasana is the symbolic center of the main sanctuary and ritual focus of the entire complex which dates to around 17th century.

This complex is so huge that you need to have at least one full day to actually let it sink in you. The taxi does not take you right up to the main entrance. In fact, you have to walk uphill a metallic road for about 2 kilometres. This road is lined with numerous shops and houses. Most of the shops sell prasada, or the offering for the gods. This walk uphill can prove to be a good test for your lungs. Once you arrive at the temple, you may come face-to-face with touts who ask for money to let you go to the main shrine. They are obviously in connivance with the guards. I refused to pay anything, but one guard let me in after knowing that I was a Hindu. So, I could go to the main shrine as a devotee rather than a tourist. Nonetheless, it is must-visit place, and the whole atmosphere is pious with even toddlers clad in traditional attires. The complex reverberate with sounds of chantings of compositions from Ramayana, and this place was successful in creating a long-lasting impression upon me.

Text and Photos by Ajay Garg

Thursday, May 28, 2009

A Little Jewel On Earth

The rice fields are abundant in Bali. In the backdrop is an inactive volcano
Kuta is one of the busiest beaches of Bali that is famous for its water sports
Major religion is Hinduism. The art depicting their faith is seen everywhere
Bali has been a dream destination for people all around the world. In fact, the variety this tiny mass of land can offer to a traveller is simply amazing. One can find everything here- right from the beaches to forests to mountains and volcanoes; and right from bars to night clubs to temples to natural parks.... The three pictures above easily tell about the diversity Bali has in store for its guests. Why should there be any doubt if Bali is every body's dream destination. And, after having visited this place, I wonder why for many people it always remains a dream to visit this place and they never get to fulfill it!! This land is so easily approachable, visa is available on arrival, people are fantastic and loving…and above all, it is not very expensive also.

The dream came true for me
The room at Jati Homestay where I stayed in Ubud area of Bali Island
Staying is quite inexpensive in Bali, especially in home stays and hostels
It was my first trip to Bali, and I was naturally excited. I was flying from Singapore to Bali on very cheap fair and on very competitive air service…thanks to new routes started by Air Asia. Singapore is the best place to board a connecting flight for Bali, though one can reach there from Kuala Lumpur or Bangkok also. As for Singapore, you can get multiple-entry visa easily and cheaply, as compared to Thailand or Malaysia. And there are more airline options from Singapore than there are from other places.

I had read a lot about Indonesia on internet… and friends who had already been to Indonesia had been telling me to be on my guard while roaming alone or in night there. Hence, there was an undercurrent of apprehensiveness along with obvious excitement. But this sense of apprehension was dispelled the moment I came out of the most beautiful and quietest airport I had ever seen. The only other airport that matches the quietness and simplicity of Ngurah Rai Airport of Bali is Al-Nozha Airport of Alexandria in Egypt, though it is not as beautiful.

Four days were not enough
A Balinese home...detached buildings in the front, a large courtyard in the rear
My trip to Bali was four-days long; though later I realized that four days were not enough if one wished to savour the beauty of this tiny island and nearby islands of Lombok and Komodo. Bali is indeed a tiny mass of land, but so rich in cultural heritage and natural beauty that one needs time to enjoy all this. The trips are usually a day long, and believe me, every trip leaves you physically exhausted but mentally refreshed. And there are many pre-designed trips offered by travel agents. Some trips take you to nearby islands and these can span from one day to two days, depending upon whether you wish to come back to Bali the same day or the next day. And if you wish to traverse the land on your own, then you need more time.
An artifact shop in Ubud, which is full of artistes; and shops full of artwork
So folks, I had only four days and I had to get the maximum out of it. At airport, visa officer asked a good number of questions before finally granting me one. I suppose they interview everybody like this, and I was not an exception just because I was an Indian. A seven-day visa costs you 10 US dollars, and for a three month visa you will have to furnish 25 US dollars. Just outside the airport, you can have paid taxi to anywhere in the island. The taxis are air-conditioned, and the ride offers you some spectacular views on the way especially when you are heading towards interior areas like Ubud or much higher in the mountains.
The owner of my home stay at work. He is one of the numerous artistes in Ubud
A painting by the owner of my home stay that depicts a scene from Ramayana
Ubud was the place where I stayed for two nights, and it was the place I fell in love with. It is an artistes’ village where every second person is a painter. If you wish to live really close to nature, then you should go for home stays there. There are a number of home-stays where you live in big family houses. In the end of their courtyards, the local people have made provisions for guest houses. The room tariff is unbelievably low at most of the places, and the stay is pleasant, comfortable and well taken care of. One can find a home stay for as-low-as US $4 per day. In most of the home stays, rooms are made of bamboos and wood only.

Charming beaches of Bali
Kuta is always abuzz with activities. If one is not surfing, one is sun-bathing
There are many beaches on the eastern coast and in the southern part of Bali, but during my stay I could go to only two of them. These were the famous Kuta Beach, and very serene Sanur Beach. Kuta beach is in the southern part of the island and is very famous for its water sports. It is one of the most visited and crowded beaches of Bali, thanks to its proximity to main business area of the island. It was in Kuta district where bomb blasts had taken place in year 2002 near two night clubs mostly frequented by Australian tourists. The Kuta Beach is swarmed with people at any time of the day. The beach boasts of a long stretches of white sand dotted with food stalls everywhere. So, while at Kuta, hunger is no problem. If you are a water sports enthusiast and are in Bali, you can’t miss this beach. This beach is so abuzz with activities that one can spend a whole day here if one wishes to. The area also has many cheaper staying options and is not far from the airport.

It is Sanur beach. The sunrise scene here is mesmerizing and unforgettable

Local couples also come to Sanur in morning to soak themselves in warm sunrays
Sanur Beach is in the southern part of the east coast of Bali. It is relatively calmer and less-crowded beach as compared to Kuta Beach. It is famous amongst travellers for its stunning sunrise. I was staying just 5-minutes’ walk away from the beach, and I was awake by 4.30 in the morning to be at the beach. I thought, I would be one of the few people over there, but I was wrong in my assumption. The whole beach was filled with locals and tourists, waiting there for the Sun to come out of its den. And as the Sun started rising behind the tiny mountains of Lembongan Island. Sanur is basically a upscale resort area where there are some of the best resorts of Bali. There are many good restaurants too. But despite all this, the beach has a very relaxed feel about itself. Interesting fact about Sanur is that it was the landing point for Dutch troops in 1906, and also an entry point of Japanese forces during Second World War. It was later developed into a beach resort area. The residential areas around this beach came later, and now it is a small little town and is also popular for its budget accommodations.

Afternoon showers bring respite

The mountains look somewhat like a misty heaven after the showers...
...while roads are suddenly lit up with headlights, much before it is dark
During my stay, it rained everyday afternoon. In Bali, they say it is very usual there. As the day wears on, you feel drenched with sweat… it becomes so humid. But the afternoon showers wash away all the irritation. And the evenings are even more pleasant and refreshing. It is just fun to be on clean roads of Bali in the evening. You just can not get out of  this place's spell very easily. Bali is a destination where you go but may not like to come back from.


For an article on The Temples of Bali, please go to this article of mine on this site.


Text and Photos by Ajay Garg

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