A Treacherous Night At 13K Feet

The top of Rohtang pass is situated at an altitude of 13050 Feet above the mean sea level

For a biker, biking all the way to Ladakh is akin to visiting Mecca. An earlier wish to go around the world on a bicycle been nipped in the bud; dream to go biking to Ladakh was well nurtured. In my better-half Bhasha, I had an able partner to support and sustain my adventurous escapades. Months were spent in meticulous planning and preparations. Bikers on that way normally prefer a heavy-duty motorbike like Bullet, but I had a three-year old light bike in Hero Honda Ambition. But then I had numerous examples of lighter bikes and even scooters going through the treacherous mountain route quite successfully.

I got my Ambition refurbished enough to withstand the hardship; accumulated all the accessories, including a double sided luggage carrier- of a kind usually used on a Bullet, but I got it designed for my bike- and an on-road repair kit. Special care was taken as Bhasha was to ride pillion all the way along and back, since all my earlier attempts to give her some biking lessons had fallen flat. Besides, neither we had any dry run nor I had rode so long (or for that matter even half of it) ever before. But I was more than assured of my homework and some thorough feedback from one of my friends Gagan Sethi who, though younger than me, is a veteran of that particular route.

Pandoh Dam on the way. The dam is built over river Beas and presents a very scenic view

But then it was later to have a face-off with the fact that Google based homework doesn’t always work that well. Well, the flag-off was uneventful, so was the ride till Chandigarh, where we had a lunch stopover. Our first day target was to reach Bilaspur in Himachal Pradesh. But it was quite late when we reached there. I had my first experience of riding in the hills and that too in the dark. It was first day of my unique riding expedition. We had covered more than 300 kilometers that day, another first for me. Besides some anxious moments on turns while negotiating with glaring headlights of trucks, we reached Bilaspur safely. But then, riding in the dark was something that we were not prepared well for, something I missed in my homework.

Kullu is famous for processions of gods, which is witnessed by a large number of people

Anyways, Bilaspur was our home for the night. We planned to travel lesser on our second day so as to keep ourselves fitter for ascend to the Lahaul valley. It was a bright morning when we left for Manali situated at a distance of just over 180 kilometres from Bilaspur. It was a beautiful route along the river Beas, covering Mandi, Sundernagar and Pandoh. We had started enjoying the ride by then. We had planned our stay at Youth Hostel at Khakhnal village, just nine kilometers before Manali on the opposite side of the river. Though, now YHAI has given its hostel franchisee to a hotel in Prini village. It was a nice and peaceful place surrounded by apple orchards overlooking the river. We had covered the first leg of our journey. Real ride was to start after this.

This is how the mountains looked from Manali before the weather suddenly turned bad

Once in Manali, weather suddenly started to take a bad turn. Although it is normal to have heavy monsoon rains in that part of India during first week of July, but  the fact that Lahaul valley was a cold desert and after crossing over the Rohtang Pass into Lahaul there would be hardly any rains had kept us encouraged and going. And also, Rohtang was just about fifty kilometers from Manali! But, rain didn’t wait till next day. The moment we were back in the hostel after dinner at a nearby restaurant, it started raining. 

Thunder showers were relentless and seemingly bent upon breaking silence of the valley, and it kept us worried. The morning was no different. With no visible signs of the rain-gods letting up, we decided to push till Rohtang hoping things would be in control after that. Having a specially-designed rain-gears with us, we aimed to reach Khoksar, less than 25 kilometres downhill from Rohtang to be safe and on the track. But oh, we were in for a huge shock! We had barely crossed Manali and started to ascend when realization dawned upon us. Our rough n’ tough raingears were not able to cope with unleashing downpour. We were already wet inside and cold wind was sending chills down the spine. These conditions forced us to purchase a couple of raincoats, and over-clothed we moved ahead. 

The rains had become quite heavier by then and I was finding it tough to ride. My hands were freezing because of ice-cold water seeping inside my gloves; and roads had become slippery. All our clothes and luggage were already wet, and it was a terrible start to a long journey. Having left with no choice, we kept moving and somehow reached Marhi passing through Kothi and Gulaba. Mercifully, the rain had relented a bit by that time. We were wet and hungry and desperately in need of some rest. At a roadside restaurant, we ordered some aloo-paranthas, and while pouncing upon them, we tried to dry ourselves from the heat of tandoor. The warmth we got from within and outside relieved our body and spirit a bit. 

Just below the top of Rohtang Pass, this little shop was our shelter for almost a full day

The ride from Marhi to Rohtang Jot is a tricky one, with many glaciers on the way. It was an hour past noon by the time we reached near Rohtang top. There were still a few small patches of snow remaining in this time of the year, and we could see many tourists having fun there. As we looked out for a food shop with some space to park my bike, we noticed Lucky Fast Food. Oh, thank you, God!! The sky still overcast, a plateful of hot noodles and tea were like a new lease of life. But as if it was not enough for us, it started raining again. It was about 3 in the afternoon, and Khoksar- the Gateway to Lahaul Valley -was another 25 kilometres from there. Though reaching Keylong would have been better, I was ready to settle for Khoksar as we were already too late for Keylong. As per my calculations, it should not have taken more than 45 minutes to reach there from Rohtang Jot. There, we could find a place to stay, and this option seemed better than returning to Manali. We just had to wait for the rains to stop.

One of the three vendors at Lucky Fast Food, who was like a God-sent saviour for us

But, as the destiny would have conspired, rains were unrelenting; rather they went on becoming heavier. Sensing the weather, tourists and vendors started rushing back to Manali, and we were perhaps the only bikers left out there on the top. As we sheepishly waited for that elusive 45-minute window, the Rohtang top quickly became a deserted place. Two hours passed in no time. By 5 pm, we were really very worried. No way could we have ridden in such a heavy downpour. Soon, raindrops turned into hails. It was getting freezing cold, and I could sense where I had put us into. The heavy clouds had eaten away all the daylight. My immediate worry was what happens if our vendor also decides to pack up. It had been our shelter since noon. We talked to the hotel guys, they were three of them; and to our big relief they were staying there for the night.

Rohtang Jot was abuzz with activity. Tourists were having fun in the small patches of snow

Although spending night on the top of Rohtang pass was still the last thought on our mind, yet the reality was looming large on us. Besides five of us, there was practically no other soul on the top, or at least I couldn’t trace anybody else. Seeing the last traces of daylight fading away, we resigned ourselves to fact that we would have to spend the night in the company of three totally strangers, amidst heavy snowfall in a shelter of which we were not sure if it would survive nature’s fury that night.

Despite very little space available in the shop, the vendors allowed us to stay there overnight. For the next twelve hours, we were their guests. First few hours were spent in talking and knowing more about them and their families. They all were from Mandi town of Himachal. This shop was their summer vocation and in winters they used to move back to their hometown. Unlike other vendors, they used to stay at Rohtang for almost the whole summer, barring occasional trips down to Manali to get goods or in case of an emergency. They all seemed very gentle to us- the guys one would rarely find in our ‘cultured’ metros. 

Noodles were again our choice for the dinner. Once it was over, nothing else was left to be done except to slip into the warmth of a blanket. The shop had a partition. The main portion had the kitchen and shop, and in the inner portion there was a makeshift sleeping place. Since, we were not carrying any bedrolls with us, the vendors were generous enough to not only give us their blankets and mattresses, but also arrange for us to sleep in the inner drier and warmer portion. No words can probably justify our gratitude for them. Even after so many years today, the thought that what would have happened had they were not there makes me shiver. 

It snowed the whole night, and it being a high altitude pass, wind was sharp and chilling. It was actually frightening at times. Vendors must have been accustomed to it, but for us it was indeed a bone-chilling experience. The noise of wind against the plastic sheet being used as roof was terrible. Every now and then we had an unnerving feeling as if the wind would blow away the shed. As expected, we couldn’t sleep the whole night, though terrible headache, high altitude dizziness, cold, fatigue and fears of unknown kept us pinned to our beds. It was a very long night.
 

These are the pictures of next morning. The road to Leh was covered with waist-deep snow

The next morning was bright, but it was all white around us. Thick carpet of fresh snow was all over. Still, the nightmarish twelve hours having failed to dampen our spirits, we decided to move ahead. After some hot tea and breakfast, we were back on our two wheels. Only then we realized that riding a bike in fresh snow was tougher than expected. We somehow managed to reach at the top, which was another kilometer and half from the shop we had stayed in. Peril started once we crossed the top on our way to jigs below. The usually beautiful curvaceous road with many hairpin bends was gone. Not many vehicles had passed since night, so there were no tyre-marks to follow. Bike was skidding every now and then and one of the slips was very severe. There was no choice but to put an end to this insanity. We finally decided to turn back. The skids were so scary that Bhasha decided to walk back instead of riding pillion so that I could handle bike more comfortably. Still we both kept slipping. Once, Bhasha even went waist-deep into snow. We somehow managed to reach back to the Lucky Fast Food and had a breath of relief along with our tea.

We had to come back to Lucky Fast Food as the road to Leh had been blocked with snow

With heavy hearts, we rode back to Manali. As destiny would have written this, just before the bridge on river Beas to cross into Manali town our bike slipped again. Luckily we escaped any major casualty. Nine kilometers away, our Youth Hostel at Khakhnal still had room for us. It was only when we reached to the confines of our room and exposed ourselves to talks around us we came to know that the rainfall last night had been one of heaviest and the most unusual for the region. We were wise to have turned back from Rohtang as there was not just a heavy snowfall on all the major passes till Leh, but also the Pagal nallah just across Khoksar was heavily overflowing. Army had stopped all movements on Manali-Leh highway owing to this weather. It meant, even if we could have managed to reach Khoksar, there would have been no way ahead. 

The temple of Ved Vyas, who wrote epic Mahabharta, is one of many attractions near Manali

Later, we came to know that owing to overflowing Pagal nallah the vehicular movement on the highway had been blocked for almost a week. Even Mandi-Manali highway was breached at many places by the suddenly swollen Beas River and roads back to Delhi were also closed, though weather had improved a lot. We waited for two days in Manali; went to places around; and even had another trip to Rohtang- this time sans any luggage- and met our samaritans at Lucky Fast Food. As soon as the roads back to Delhi were opened, we were off. Our journalism jobs couldn’t afford the luxury of waiting endlessly for Pagal nallah to relent. The dream of riding on bike to Leh still lives with us.

To see the video related to this incident, go to  

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1P5Gp1pwY3A

  
Text and Photos by Upendra Swami

of The Vagabond

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Glimpses Of Paris- The City Of Lights

The Louvre Museum is famous all over the world for its enviable collection of exhibits

Paris is an ever-happening city. Such sightings are not very uncommon in the streets

Paris is often called ‘a filmmaker’s dream’ where at every step there is a readymade set. Hundreds of films made all over the world have been set in the City of Lights, such as ‘Paris Je t'aime’, ‘From Paris With Love’, ‘2 Days in Paris’, ‘Before Sunset’, and more recently, ‘Midnight in Paris’. So, I decided to take myself on a ‘filmi’ photographic journey of Paris’ popular tourist spots.

Eiffel Tower

The Eiffel Tower is the biggest attraction for the tourists visiting the French Capital

This majestic tower has three levels. Imagine how it must feel while being on the top

Five minutes after I got off the train at the Trocadero station, I saw this magnificent metal structure. Its sheer size is so intimidating, you can’t help but be mesmerised by its presence. The closer I got to the tower, it dawned on me how big a tourist attraction it is. Divided into three levels, it is flooded with people waiting in endless queues, waiting for the elevators to get inside the tower. On the other hand, there were those who chose to take the stairs, I suppose, till Level 1. My patience (that wore thin after waiting for two and half hours in the queue) took me only till Level 2, where the view was rather spectacular.  However, the charm of the Eiffel Tower, for me, lies in gazing at it from afar. Irrespective, I wish I had made it to Level 3. Undoubtedly, the Eiffel Tower most definitely is a must-visit.

Admission fee: €14(adult),  €12.5(age 12-24 years), €9.5(age 4-11 years)

Arc de Triomphe

The colossal Arc de Triomphe was built to commemorate the soldiers who fought and died for France in the French Revolutionary and the Napoleonic Wars. It is engraved with the names of all the generals who commanded French troops during Napoleon's regime and prominent French victories on the structure’s inner and outer surfaces, and beneath its vault lays the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier from World War I.

Visitors can walk up a spiral staircase for views of the Eiffel Tower, Champs-Elysées and the Sacré Coeur from the observatory, located on the top of the building. There is also a small museum that displays small and large models of the structure and recounts its story from the time of its construction.

Admission fee: €9.50

Montmartre

One of the most interesting neighbourhoods in Paris, Montmartre has been home to many famous artists' studios, such as Vincent Van Gogh and Salvador Dali, as well as the backdrop of films like ‘Amelie’ and ‘Moulin Rouge’. It is also where the Basilica of Sacre-Coeur is located, atop a hill. This quaint area is replete with an intriguing fusion of street artists, boulangeries and of course, the Moulin Rouge (that roughly translates 'red mill').

Cruising on River Seine

A cruise is a laid-back, relaxing way of sightseeing. There are tons of companies offering different types of cruises on the River Seine. You can pick from open-air boats with casual seating to glass-covered ones that you can club with an extravagant dinner and cocktails.The usual hour-long cruises take you on a scenic route that pans over the city's prominent historical and architectural landmarks, such as the Eiffel Tower and the Notre Dame Cathedral. I took an open-air boat, as I wanted to ensure zero obstruction, which however wasn't possible, thanks to an over-enthusiastic man who kept standing in front of me blocking my view.

The cruises ply from several points, like the Eiffel Tower and operate all year around.

Admission fee: €11

Ladurée

With doting fans like Blake Lively and Sofia Coppola, you can be sure that Ladurée certainly creates some of the best macarons in the world. And being a crazy dessert lover, I just had to try them.

I happen to stumble upon the store, and what happened next is something I’m going to deny if ever asked again. Like a giggly school girl, I stood staring at the store with stars in my eyes and greed dripping down like drool. I couldn’t wait to get inside and get my hands on that macaron tower on the display counter. But I can proudly say; I almost behaved myself. Just that I got a tad lost while making a selection and invited some nasty scowls from other customers. But it was a small price to pay. My favourite was this black macaron with liquorice filling.

Cost of a small macaron: €1.65

Jean-Paul-Hevin
Following a suggestion made by Emilie from www.travelavenue.com, I headed to Jean-Paul-Hevin to try their chocolates on my last day in Paris. Here are a few glimpses of their lip-smacking range of chocolates and macarons.

I wish I had more time to tick off all the places on my list of must-visit places in Paris, but who says I’m not going back!

Text and Photos by Ruchika Vyas
of Traveller Stories

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Hawaiian Islands Have It All

Hawaii! A mere mention of this word is enough to generate a very warm and bright-as-sun feeling  inside anybody. Yes! The diverse natural scenery, warm tropical climate, abundance of long sandy beaches and oceanic surrounding... all these make Hawaii a popular destination for tourists and surfers. And to add to this list, some really active volcanoes enhance Hawaii's charm.

An archipelago comprising of volcanic islands in northern Pacific Ocean, Hawaii presents some amazing sites to its visitors. The eight islands at south-eastern end of the archipelago are the most frequently visited ones; and amongst them Maui (the Valley Isle), Kauai (the Garden Isle), Oahu (the Gathering Place) and Hawaii (the Big Island) are the most scenic ones. While Niihau (the Forbidden Isle) is also very scenic but is privately owned.

Roam about in one of the most lovely places on earth through photographs... All these photos are by David Hellard of Recalibration Photography 

The beaches on the island of Maui are a perfect place to enjoy sun-bathing

A long shot of a beach on Maui Island. The Island is known as Valley Isle

Kauai Island is aptly known as the Garden Isle for its beautiful landscapes

Surfing and other water sports on various islands are major tourist attractions

The volcanic rocks of Hawaiian islands do present some intriguing topography 

Rock, sand and water are the three main ingredients of Hawaii archipelago

The catamarans and speedboats are main mode of transportation between islands 

What is the better way to explore nooks and corners of islands than a small boat!

It can just be mesmerizing on a cloudy day on any of the islands of Hawaii

Again, this is Maui, the Valley Isle. Does it remind you of an Arabian movie?

Sunset in Maui. Every hour of the day is loaded with a colour of its own

Hawaiian beaches are not sandy always. One does encounter rocky patches at times

The sand is not white like on coral islands, as it is loaded with volcanic minerals

The beach houses and resorts are prefect place to live throughout the year

The local children enjoying the sea. The original population is of Polynesian decent 

Again, this is Maui. A perfect setting for a relaxed living, with sea as you neighbour

There are many volcanoes that are still active. This one is Haleakala on Maui

A remote corner in Maui. Nature's blend of turquoise water and fertile hills

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Some Breathtaking Visuals of Shimla

Once the summer capital of British India, Shimla- formerly known as Simla- has always been a star attraction for tourists from India and abroad alike. The city and its surrounding areas have amply been gifted with breathtaking views by nature and are draped in forests of pine, rhododendron and oak. Many parts of the city still retain the old colonial charm through the buildings styled in neo-Gothic architecture.

Shimla is situated at an altitude of 2205 metres and boasts of a very pleasant weather in summer when most of the north India reels under scorching heat. It were its awe-inspiring views and refreshing climate, that the British coined the term 'Queen of the Hills' for this place. And this term still holds good long after it came into existence.

Here are some shots of this beautiful place at different times of the day... All the photos are by Naveen Choudhary

A cloud spreads over the city... The whole setting looks refreshed after recent showers

A thick fog at night makes the famous church at the Ridge look even more beautiful

The famous Gaiety Theatre stands out illuminated  while engulfed in thick blanket of fog

One of the 106 railway tunnels on the way from Kalka to Shimla on a narrow-gauge line

A shot of the city taken from atop a neighbouring hill. The sun is playing hide and seek.

The rain shelter at the Ridge. The Ridge is the centre point for all activities in Shimla.

A distant shot of city at night time. The church at the Ridge serves as an identity of the city

The Centre for Advanced Studies is housed in a building that reminds us of colonial era

Road to Jakhu Temple that is dedicated to Lord Hanuman. It is situated on a higher altitude

The famous Jakhu Temple, where Lord Hanuman is believed to have set his foot once

 

A scene of the Ridge in bright sunlight. But the sky hints that it is going to rain soon

The building of medical college situated in Sanjauli area. It is called the Snowden

Shimla has many temples, and some of them are more revered ones like this one is

Shimla has expanded significantly in past some decades. A view of a new residential area

Shimla is well connected with road and rail with rest of the India. There are regular air-conditioned and normal bus service from New Delhi, Chandigarh and many other prominent cities and state capitals. It takes around 4 hours to reach Shimla from Chandigarh by road. A narrow gauge railway line connects Shimla with Kalka, and Kalka is connected to Delhi by a broad gauge line and regular train service. There is also an airport at Jubbbalhatti near Shimla, which is connected with Delhi via regular services.

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